So there I was, tasting a range of different wines from the Yarra Valley over a casual dinner at Giant Steps, when this one detonated in my mouth. Boom! Something special; the first 100% malbec produced by this iconic Yarra vineyard and a triumph from winemaker Sarah Crowe, who is producing an outstanding range of wines using fruit from unirrigated vines that were planted in 1969. It is Yarra Yering's boast that they produce "elegant, complex and powerful wines". That's all true here with a wow factor wine that won't be released to the public until May 2018 - and then in tiny quantities. This brambly benefaction showcases malbec that was previously used for blending with cabernet sauvignon and the end result is a bold, assertive package of dark flavours that is at once powerful and charming. If you want some of this rarity I'd contact the winery to be put on a waiting list. Amazeballs. $92. www.yarrayering.com.