I tend to come over all gushy when I'm reviewing the high-end wines from Vanya Cullen and her talented Margaret River team of organic/biodynamic artists. Here I go again with a superbly calibrated chardonnay that ranks as world class. Unfined and unfiltered, this was wild-yeast fermented in barriques, puncheons and amphorae, underwent natural malo and was then matured for 10 months in French oak barrels (around one-third of which were new). The fruit used comes from 40+-year-old vines and was hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed. Think white peach, nectarine and some brioche/cream flavours that match with intense minerality and crispness on the finish. Pair with char-grilled king prawns for a Christmas treat. 96/100.