With ambitious owners in Elias Jreissati and his family and a world-class winemaker in Paul Bridgeman, few newer wine labels can match the fast upward trajectory of Levantine Hill in the Yarra Valley. This is a classic example of cool-climate shiraz: it is a beautifully poised wine, with the elegance and structure both hitting high notes. This plush but perky number is a blend of nine different parcels of fruit and was recently won the overall syrah/shiraz trophy at the International Wine and Spirits Competition in London - a serious heavyweight award. The judges there praised its "beautifully aromatic bouquet of lavender, musk, sweet spices and red berries" and described it as "full-bodied without being heavy: stunning". Well worth seeking out a bottle or two. Bugger anyone else; treat yourself to a bottle or two of this over the holidays. $85. www.levantinehill.com.au.