Quality fruit is the key to the appeal of this, the first white wine to be released under the Kyeema label - the premium range of wines from Capital Wines. The Kyeema chardonnay vines are over 30 years old and have previously provided fruit for the iconic Eileen Hardy wine. This is a very textural offering as a result of the addition of some bright, early-picked viognier, a variety more usually blended with shiraz. This is not a co-ferment; the chardonnay is fermented in oak and the viognier in stainless steel, but there is still a seamlessness to the wine, along with real drinkability. $36.www.capitalwines.com.au.