Goaty Hill 2009 Pinot Noir

I'm a huge fan of Tasmanian pinots noir - and the first 09s from the Tamar Valley, which are just starting to creep into the marketplace, seem to tick all the right boxes. For a start, this is genuinely varietal when so many of its mainland counterparts are generic dry reds. That said, it's quite a big wine, richly textured with dark red berry flavours alongside Asian spices, soft tannins, French oak in balance and delightful savoury characters. It's young and assertive and very appealing. $34.

Whistler 2008 Hubert Irving

My first reaction when I tried this wine was "it tastes expensive". I was wrong about that, as it happens, but all the more impressed. This is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, mataro and shiraz made for Whistler Wines by the very talented Troy Kalleske. It's medium bodied with characteristic Barossa aromas of dark berries and mint. Luscious sweet fruit, think black plums, dominates the palate which has intensity and soft tannins. A versatile food wine and extremely good value for around $18.

Hewitson 2010 LuLu Sauvignon Blanc

White wines do not come any crisper, fresher and more enticing than this - which was released before many other wineries had even completed their 2010 harvest. Put aside prejudices again sauvignon blanc for a moment and judge this wine on its merits. Made from Adelaide Hills fruit (arguably Australia's best region for sauvignon blanc) it has vibrant citrus and tropical fruit characters and delightfully zingy acidity. It's a million miles away in style from its herbaceous Kiwi counterparts. I can't remember the last time I guzzled an entire bottle of sauvignon, but this one just disappeared. Team it with grilled sardines or pan-fried flathead fillets. $22.

Clonakilla 2009 Canberra District Riesling

Tim Kirk is much better known for his reds than his rieslings - and this has been out in the marketplace for several months, but it is so enticing that I feel the need to wax lyrical before it has completely sold out. This has floral/herbal aromas with delightful freshness and purity on the palate, which is zingy and zesty with citrus and stone fruit flavours to the fore. Brilliant. $26.

Atticus 2006 Chardonnay

From the winemaking team at Chapman Grove in Margaret River comes this stunningly good chardonnay. A single vinyard wine fermented in French oak barrels, this is a chardy with all the bells and whistles. It is beautifully developed and ready to be enjoyed thanks to layer upon layer of flavours. There's great white stone-fruit characters with hints of nuts and toast adding complexity. A beautiful wine made in the Burgundian style - it would be sensational with a roast pork loin. $50.

Baillieu Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir

Kathleen Quealy is an exceptionally talented winemaker who crafts fine wines for several labels on the Mornington Peninsula. This is a pinot for those who like their wines on the bolder side of the spectrum. It's from a warm year, which is reflected in the intense dark cassis fruit flavours, but it also has lovely balance, with hinuts of earthiness and oak in the background but playing a key role. My wife fell in love with this instantly - I took time to come around but was eventually captivated as well. $35.

Swinging Bridge 2008 Shiraz

This was one of my favourite wines from a recent trip to Canowindra and Orange in the Central West of NSW - and it's all the more meritorious because it follows in the footsteps of the much-awarded 2007 shiraz, which is all but sold out. Winemakers Chris Derrez and Tom Ward have got it right again with a wine that has excellent complexity but is also very easy to drink. Dark berries and spice characters are prominent and this has already won a gold medal at the Royal Sydney Wine Show. Excellent value for $20.