1er Yarra Valley 2011 Chardonnay

There are some wine producers who seem to manage to hit the bullseye every time; no matter how tough the vintage. Franco d'Anna from Hoddles Creek in the Yarra Valley is one such vigneron, as is evidenced by this stunning and decidedly Chablis-like cool-climate chardonnay from the winery's flagship range. Weighing in at just 13.2% alcohol, this is a white wine of both concentration and finesse with immense immediate appeal. Made using minimal intervention (its spends more time in tank than in oak), the fruit shows taut, flinty nuances alongside tangy citrus notes, green apple with just a hint of mealiness and superb acid. This has so much length and purity and is beautifully composed and light on its toes - like a world-class fencer. $40. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.     

Printhie 2011 MCC Chardonnay

The Orange region, just over three hours west of Sydney, is fast emerging as one of the most exciting wine producing districts in the country; chardonnay and sauvignon blanc do particularly well in its cool climes. This is a stunner from a small family winery that has built up a formidable reputation for quality. This has a real Wow! factor with grapefruit and mandarine notes, some nutty nuances and restrained spicy oak. Extremely elegant with terrific length and balance. $36. www.printhiewines.com.au

Golden Grove Estate 2011 Nero d'Avola

I recently tasted a batch of wines from Queensland, largely from the Granite Belt, and while several of the whites shone, this was the standout red. The Costanzo family craft some excellent wines at their Ballandean facility and this is a delightful take on the Sicilian grape Nero d'Avola, which is growing in popularity in Australia. It has a delightful freshness and drinkability to it, with a bright mixed berry and smoky nose followed by zingy ripe fruit, good structure, spicy intensity and plenty of lively acid. Very food friendly and a great lunchtime red at just 13.5% alcohol. $24. www.goldengroveestate.com.au.

Briar Ridge 2012 Trio

For those days when you just want a wine that is cool, clean, crisp and refreshing, I give you the Briar Ridge Trio; a blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and chardonnay from the Hunter Valley and Orange regions of New South Wales. Unwooded and weighing in at a modest 12% alcohol, this is not a wine that encourages contemplation or evokes images of terroir. It is what it is, a very enjoyable drink that demands nothing of the imbiber other than pleasure. It's a light, earlier drinking style in which all the elements have gelled brilliantly. $18. www.briarridge.com.au.

Caillard 2011 Mataro

Clever chap, Andrew Caillard. He's a master of wine, auctioneer, author and all-round wine boffin. He not only made this lovely wine in conjunction with family members, he also painted the pretty picture for the label. I tasted this alongside several far more expensive premium reds and it shone with its super dark fruit complexity. “Exquisite” was my one word tasting note. It is a triumph from a very difficult vintage in the Barossa; spicy, supple, briary, tangy and very drinkable. One to seek out - and a terrific partner for a traditional roast lamb en croute. $44. www.caillardwine.com.

Topper's Mountain 2012 Gewurztraminer

Remote Tingha in rural New England, northern New South Wales, may seem an unlikely source of top-notch gewurztraminer but the world of wine is full of surprises and this was a pleasant one. This has much in common with its Alsace counterparts; it has the telltale musky and Turkish delight bouquet and flavours, smoothness and silkiness on the palate and a refreshingly fresh palate with lashings of spice lychee notes and tingly acid. The alcohol level is just 12.6% and this would be just lovely with some sauerkraut, or - alternatively - some fiery Asian stir-fry dishes. $35. www.toppers.com.au.

Wickhams Road 2012 Yarra Valley Chardonnay

If there were to be a competition to find the label offering the best value wines in the land then Wickhams Road would be a very serious contender. Wickhams Road is the budget label of respected Yarra Valley winery Hoddles Creek, which embraces sustainable agriculture and organic methods. This is an excellent chardonnay from a serious cool-climate wine region at a price that beggars belief. It is a lip-smackingly delicious, thoroughly modern chardonnay in the style of Chablis with white stone fruit, citrus and mineral notes to the fore along with crisp acidity. Try it with flathead and chips. There is also a Gippsland chardonnay in the range that is equally excellent. $18. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.