The Backbencher 2011 Merlot

You won't find too many merlots reviewed in my wine columns, or on my blogs. I'm unashamedly of the opinion that most Australian merlots are dull, monochromatic beasts, soft and easy to drink without any hint of personality or interest. There are, fortunately, some exceptions; the wines of Irvine Wines in the Eden Valley and this delightful little number from Capital Wines outside Canberra. A lot of work has been done of the southern end of the Kyeema vineyard from which this is sourced and the fruit quality is blossoming. There's plenty of interest on the palate here, plummy fruit notes and hints of spice, along with the softness you'd expect from the variety. It's quite simply very drinkable. Pair this with a pastrami sandwich for a taste treat. $25. www.capitalwines.com.au.

  

Oakridge 864 A6 Block 2012 Willowlake Yarra Valley Chardonnay

This is one of my favourite chardonnays of the year - a wine that absolutely nails it in terms of weight, length, flavour and balance. Made using fruit from a different vineyard each year, 864 is well on its way to becoming Australia's premier single-vineyard chardonnay. This is a quintessential modern style; it has pristine, pinpoint clarity but also complexity on the palate with hints of smoky oak, white stone fruit, defined citrus and a refined, steely backbone. There is lots of intensity here, but the wine is approachable even as a youngster. Brilliant stuff. Treat yourself to a case for Christmas. You won't regret it. $75. www.oakridgewines.com.au.

Pikes 2013 Traditionale Riesling

The 2013 vintage for was a cracker for rieslings across Australia and once again this Clare Valley classic was in fine fettle. Crisp and clean with pristine bright citrus flavours and zingy acidity this absolutely delightful in its youth and is refreshing without being simple. It offers plenty of length, is tangy and slatey and would be a charming companion with a seafood platter over the holiday period just as it was a lovely match for some pan-fried blue-eye trevalla. A reliably good wine that's easy to find - and even easier to drink. $22.  

Vinaceous 2012 Red Right Hand

Nick Stacey and Michael Kerrigan, the marketer and winemaker behind the striking Vinaceous brand, source fruit from vineyards across Australia for their range - and the attractive labels make the wines easy to find on a bottle shop shelf. Previous incarnations of this shiraz, grenache, tempranillo blend were sourced from McLaren Valley but this new release hails from ever-reliable Margaret River, where they have enjoyed umpteen great vintages in a row. In keeping with the fun label, this is also fun to drink; a bright ripe, fleshy, juicy Aussie red, spicy and fruit driven but benefitting from judicious oak treatment. I like this a lot and I think you'll find their website pretty cool as well. $25. www.vinaceous.com.au.     

The Winesmiths 2012 Tempranillo

I can already hear the wine snobs muttering into their beards. Cask wine? What is he thinking of? But the simple fact is this recent release from the Hill Smith/Yalumba stable offers darn good value for money - at less than $1 a glass in fact. The 2-litre box, a retro classic that is being rebranded, is both convenient and eco-friendly. I sampled the 2012 chardonnay and 2012 tempranillo from a range that also includes pinot grigio and shiraz and found both more than a match for a lot of the execrable cheaper bottled wines in the marketplace. The Winesmiths encourage drinkers to pour their wines into 500ml decanters, European style. As is always the case with casks look for ones that have been stored in a cool place, choose the most recent vintage available and consume the contents within three weeks. I reckon most drinkers will be surprised by the quality on offer here – this has plenty of juicy, spicy fruit, a little dustiness and great drinkability. $18-20. www.thewinesmiths.com.

Cape Mentelle 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2011 vintage was a problematic one in many Australian vineyard regions but in Margaret River they enjoyed yet another stellar year, which resulted in wines like this stunning red, a cabernet sauvignon that's blended with a little cabernet franc and merlot. A long-time benchmark single-vineyard wine, this is a deliciously complex beast that will probably cellar for two decades or more. That said, it is already deliciously drinkable with dark cassis and herb notes and just a hint of toasty oak. There's plenty of drive here, real intensity and just enough softness to make it balanced and fun right now. $90. www.capementelle.com.au. 

Margan 2013 Verdelho

Verdelho is a Portuguese grape that is often used in the fortified wines of Madeira, but in Australia it has found a home away from home in the Hunter Valley, where is produces fruity dry white wines that are extremely refreshing. This is unoaked and has tropical fruit salad flavours along with a crisp, clean and zippy acid finish. A wine for enjoying in its youth, preferably when well chilled. A great summer choice. $16. www.margan.com.au.