If only all Australian shirazes were this good. Shaw and Smith use cool-climate Adelaide Hills fruit but still manage to produce a beautifully balanced medium-bodied wine that has plenty of juicy impact while at the same time offering elegance and hints of spice. French oak plays an understated support role with the vibrant fruit the star here. Deep red in colour, aromatic and appealing, this is a wine of concentration and quality that is drinking splendidly right now but will also cellar well. $38.