Hamish and Kate Laurie at Deviation Road have been making some very fine wines from the Adelaide Hills for a couple of years now - I have several enthusiastic tasting notes that have not made it into print. This new release blew me away, however. It's definitely one of Australia's best pinots gris while not being without the freshness and crispness of the grigio style. The fruit was picked at two different levels of ripeness and partial barrel fermentation has added complexity, although the wine is definitely fruit driven. Think crisp, waxy pears and beguiling textures. $25.
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