The vast majority of the fruit that goes into Penfolds' flagship Yattarna Chardonnay comes from one standout vineyard in Tasmania: Derwent Estate, overlooking the Derwent River at Granton, north of Hobart. And while the Yattarna sells at $100+ a bottle, Derwent Estate owners, the Hanigan family, also keep a small amount of fruit to release under their own label. And, of course, the Derwent Estate wine is just a tad more affordable than Yattarna. Vinified by Julian Alcorso at Winemaking Tasmania (although Derwent Estate has recently built its own winery), this is a thoroughly modern chardonnay with bright stone fruit and citrus flavours, bright acid, a judiciously judged oak regime, minerality and palate interest. Outstanding - and indicative of the quality wines Tasmania is producing. $37. www.derwentestate.com.au.