Over the past couple of vintages I have become aware of the consistent quality being produced by Singlefile Wines, based at Denmark in Western Australia's Great Southern region but with access to fruit across a broad sweep of the state's vineyards. This wine, however, stands out even from the pack of outstanding 2012 cabernets from the west. It is a downright lovely drink; with that elusive interplay between fruit, oak and savoury characters right on the money. Stylish, sophisticated and very approachable even in its youth, this would be a brilliant accompaniment to a lamb en croute. $37. www.singlefilewines.com.