Gamay is the grape of Beaujolais, the region of France that produces lip-smackingly juicy red wines that invariably offer immediate enjoyment without any need for cellaring. Gamay is an ideal style for the Australian lifestyle - it is fresh and enjoyable chilled - but only a handful of local producers, Sorrenberg and Two Bud Spur among them, make it successfully. David Lloyd at Eldridge Estate on the Mornington Peninsula, is one of the leading lights in the Australian gamay movement, and this is an absolute ripper; vivacious and vibrant with dark cherry notes, hints of pepper and herbs, and really zingy cranberry acidity that dances a tango on your tongue. Lloyd says it will cellar for up five years but I can't for the life of me see why you'd want to. $40. www.eldridge-estate.com.au
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