Balance is the key to great wine, and this is a Bendigo red of impeccable harmony. There are the dark fruit flavours you'd expect from a shiraz, impressive structure, and oak that plays an astute but not intrusive support role. It carries its 14.6% alcohol lightly. This a wine that is the antithesis of the "bigger is better" style of Australian shiraz, more Mumford and Sons than Eminem. There's warmth and flavour, sure, but there is also a persistent finish with firm acid structure. This would be a most amiable companion for a traditional roast lamb dish or a hearty ratatouille. Top value for $34. www.passingclouds.com.au.
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