A classic Australian "claret" from veteran wine magician Brian Croser, using grapes from some very special vines in Wrattonbully, South Australia. Planted in 1974, the four-hectare Whalebone vineyard produces cabernets of distinction, with serious presence and minerality. That accounts for 85% of this blend with the remaining fruit comprising shiraz from the adjoining Crayeres vineyard. Seriously good drinking. The wine spent 20 months in 50% new French oak and has superb harmony about it. Think Fred and Ginger, or maybe Scary and Ginger. $55. www.tapanappa.com.au.
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