What an impressive collection. The current releases from Yarra Valley producer Bird on a Wire are absolutely front and centre in the pleasure zone. Only 380 cases were made of this stunning mature chardonnay; so speed may be of the essence if you want to snap some up. Winemaker Caroline Mooney, a Yarra local born and bred, has produced a very classy cool-climate chardonnay (the fruit is from chilly Gladysdale) that comes with the happy combination of intensity and elegance - and is very much in a Burgundian groove. Pair with a lightly-spiced chicken dish or a traditional pork roast. Bird on Wire is definitely a label to keep an eye out for. $40. https://birdonawirewines.com.au.