Smart wineries go with their strengths. So while McLaren Vale is the source of fruit for Wirra Wirra's red wines, growers in the much cooler Adelaide Hills provide grapes for the winery's whites. This is undoubtedly one of the best-value chardonnays around; fresh, crisp and vibrant with the cool-climate fruit allowed full voice. This is a very new wave chardonnay, none of your big oak or overt lees stirring here. Think lively citrus aromas and flavours; plenty of refreshment and the ability to match with a wide range of cuisines. It was a star with pan-fried whiting fillets. $18. www.wirrawirra.com/
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