Winemaker Paul Bridgeman describes the 2017 Yarra Valley vintage as being "akin to winding the clock back 25-plus years, delivering an absolutely ideal unusually cool, calm and extended growing season like the classic conditions of yore". Anyone lucky enough to taste this stunning syrah would be likely to agree; it has serious cool-climate style. Poised, like a ballet dancer or supermodel, it also has an inner core of strength; and an elegance akin to one of the classic cars in owner Elias Jreissati's collection. It's a smooth customer with layered flavours that range from Christmas Cake to cassis to white pepper. Complex but undemanding, sensuous and silky, this is a beautifully integrated instant classic. I'd give it 96 points, or maybe 96.5. $80. www.levantinehill.com.au.
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