Kevin John, arguably Australia's most consistent fine chardonnay, is named in tribute to winemaker Vanya Cullen's late father, the founder of the Margaret River winery. Made from chardonnay vines planted between 1976-1988, it is - once again - a triumph. It ticks all the sustainability boxes; organic, biodynamic, carbon neutral etc, but it is the purity of the fruit that is the most striking element of this new release. There's 50% new oak, 100% natural malo and the wine is unfiltered. There's a panoply of pleasure here; a symphony of style. The oak barely registers. Think length, poise. minerally intensity and immense drinking pleasure. 97/100 for me. $127. www.cullenwines.com.au.