At a time when wineries with far lesser reputations are charging $60 and upwards for their pinots noir, it is a real pleasure to find a wine like this one from one of the Yarra's finest winemakers, David Bicknell. Its is an individual vineyard wine from the Hazeldene vineyard, which is in Gladysdale and has red volcanic soil. This underwent whole bunch/berry fermentation in open vessels for three weeks before spending a year in French oak. The end result; a disarmingly quaffable cool-climate pinot noir with sweet varietal fruit and assertive tannins that is darn fine value for $44. www.oakridgewines.com.au.