Clonakilla is a standout Canberra region winery far better known for its red wines than its whites - despite producing small quantities of top-notch riesling and viognier. Here owner Tim Kirk has purchased fruit from high-altitude Tumbarumba to make a stellar cool-climate chardonnay. The fruit comes from a block 700 metres above sea level and offers an amalgam of stone fruit and citrus notes, with plenty of brisk acid adding the spine. Lovely drinking here with elegance and length. $36. www.clonakilla.com.au
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