The Even Keel range from Mornington Peninsula producer Polperro is looking smart across the board right now, but this one caught my fancy with its beguiling combination of fresh fruit characters and texture on the palate. Old oak and wild ferment add interest. Enticing aromas lead to an energetic palate where tangy citrus flavours jive with mineral notes. Think dry, think interesting, think refreshing. For those unfamiliar with the cortese grape, very little of which is grown in Australia, it emanates from the south-eastern regions of Piedmont and is the star of the Gavi region. It pairs very well with seafood; anything from Thai fishcakes to grilled prawns. There is also an impressive 2023 Pinot Gris in the range. $35. www.polperrowines.com.au/product/cortese-2022/
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