A surprise package from the d'Anna family, who produce outstanding wines in the Yarra Valley. It is not a wine for everyone but will certainly be a hit with lovers of skin-contact wines. It is salmon coloured, but not to be mistaken for a rosé. It is a blend of fruit from two blocks, one picked early for freshness, the other picked later for tannin ripeness from the skin contact. It is a wine of impressive vibrancy, with a savoury, dry finish. It is treated like a red wine in the winery and that gives it added tannin structure. Versatile, too. Pair with anything from a mushroom quiche to a tapas plate. $26. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au
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