Some wines sing. This is a Pavarotti extravaganza. The new vintage of the Hunter Valley's standout red will be released in June - and it is a star turn - a wine of concentration, structure and distinction. The Pokolbin vineyard grapes, from vines that are 56 years old, are aided and abetted by 100% French oak (15% new), which is soaked up by the quality fruit. Very composed, impeccably balanced. Dark with layers of flavours; and sensual, savoury notes. This is elegant but rounded; precise and very sexy. An icon from winemaker Stuart Hordern and his team that gets 98 points from me. Wish I could afford a bottle or two to put away as this is a brilliant cellaring prospect for the next three decades. $500. www.brokenwood.com.au
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