World-class pinot noir for under $50? Snap it up. Much better than most entry-level village Burgundies and Central Otago stars and certainly more affordable. This is a stunning wine that ticks all the pinot boxes with intense red berry fruit, forest floor earthiness, gamey/mushroom notes and a sinewy tannin structure. I am a bit late getting to this one and you may need to search around but I note it is still for sale on the Kooyong website so I'd get on board asap. I was going to give this 93/100 on tasting but upped that to 94 after drinking. Excellent. $48. www.kooyongwines.com.au.
Sunday, December 18, 2016
Kooyong 2014 Pinot Noir
World-class pinot noir for under $50? Snap it up. Much better than most entry-level village Burgundies and Central Otago stars and certainly more affordable. This is a stunning wine that ticks all the pinot boxes with intense red berry fruit, forest floor earthiness, gamey/mushroom notes and a sinewy tannin structure. I am a bit late getting to this one and you may need to search around but I note it is still for sale on the Kooyong website so I'd get on board asap. I was going to give this 93/100 on tasting but upped that to 94 after drinking. Excellent. $48. www.kooyongwines.com.au.
Saturday, December 10, 2016
Even Keel 2016 Pinot Gris
Winemaker Sam Coverdale is producing some excellent Mornington Peninsula wines under both the Polperro and Even Keel labels. While this is labelled as gris, rather than grigio, I found the 2015 Polperro release much more in the gris spectrum than this younger wine, which has an appealing vibrancy and freshness with a crisp acid finish in the Italian grigio style. Wild yeast ferment, malo and barrel ageing add complexity but the bright natural acid and ripe pear and zingy citrus zest notes make this extremely refreshing. Well worth 93/100. $29. www.polperrowines.com.au.
Sunday, December 4, 2016
Bremerton 2014 Lagrein
We sample an awful lof wines each week, but this one struck a chord with its drinkability; my wife opted to sip on this three nights in succession. While a lot of wine drinkers might not be familiar with the Italian wine variety lagrein it is growing in popularity in Australia and this Langhorne Creek version has plummy, chocolate and earthy notes along with exemplary balance. It is extremely food friendly. Lagrein is a grape variety native to the South Tyrol in northern Italy and is a descendant of teroldego, syrah and pinot noir, among other varieties. It dates back to the 17th century. This new release is quite powerful but with the structure to match. Well worth seeking out, but you might need to contact the Bremerton cellar door. $24. www.bremerton.com.au.
Friday, November 25, 2016
Mount Horrocks 2016 Watervale Riesling
The sample bottle, from which I was just pouring occasional sips, is mysteriously empty. "How the hell did that happen?" I ask myself. Only one answer; it was so darn delicious that I drank the entire bottle without noticing. I don't advise anyone to follow my lead, but I can assure you this rarely happens at Chez Dobbin. A couple of glasses of most wines are more than enough. It is a tribute to the winemaking skills of Stephanie Toole that it happened. This is an estate-grown, single-vineyard riesling from riesling heartland in Watervale, Clare Valley. Certified organic, it is a classic Clare riesling, aromatic with vibrant lemon and grapefruit pithiness, linear, slatey and with brilliant acid. It is also delicate and ethereal. No wonder it evaporated. Grab a case for Christmas drinking pleasure. I'll give it 96 points. $35. www.mounthorrocks.com.
Saturday, November 19, 2016
David Hook 2015 Shiraz
Looking for a terrific midweek wine, or something inexpensive to accompany the weekend barbecue? This is one well worth looking out for. Soft and full of flavour, it is widely available for under $20. For the 2015 vintage, winemaker Hook has blended fruit from his own Pothana vineyard in the Hunter Valley with grapes from the Central Ranges (outside Mudgee). He's onto a winner with a medium-bodied, fruit-driven red that has only a smidgen of oak character. Think sweet berries and hints of Asian spice. Drink now and pair with gourmet sausages or hamburgers. A bargain for $18. www.davidhookwines.com.au.
Saturday, November 12, 2016
Howard Park 2015 Miamup Cabernet Sauvignon
Take arguably Australia's best region for cabernet sauvignon, throw in one of the best winemakers in the west in Janice McDonald, and add the mighty resources of the Howard Park label and you have one of the best sub-$30 cabernets in the land. Made from fruit grown in the warmer northern reaches of Margaret River, this has traditional cabernet characteristics of dark berry and intense currant flavours, some mild herbal hints and has impressive chewy tannin structure after 18 months maturing in quality French oak. All in all, rather scrumptious and one for lovers of classic styles. I'd pair this with a lamb en croute, or maybe some mature English cheddar. A winner at $28. www.burchfamilywines.com.au.
Thursday, November 3, 2016
Mount Avoca 2015 Limited-Release Sangiovese
What a pleasant surprise this wine was. First, I had no idea that Mount Avoca had any sangiovese planted in its vineyards in the Victorian Pyrenees, and I certainly had no idea it would produce a wine as impressive as this. This is a very good take on the classic red grape of Tuscany, impressively balanced with medium-bodied savoury fruit and soft tannin structure. The fruit is impressive and the oak treatment, using older barrels only, adds structure without being intrusive. This is extremely food friendly and would pair with a chicken casserole or with rich tomato-based dishes. Just lovely. $45. www.mountavoca.com.
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