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One of my favourite wines of the year; predictably excellent. The 2020 Kevin John is made from fruit grown in a vineyard planted in 1976. The vines are certified biodynamic and the fruit was whole bunch basket pressed into 50% new puncheons. Naturally fermented, the wine spent six months in barrel and has had no fining, filtration or cold stabilisation. It is wonderfully complex, and decidedly delicious. 98 points from me. $150. www.cullenwines.com.au/
Here is a wine from one of the most reliable producers in the country that offers remarkable value for money. If you are looking for an excellent cabernet to pair with your turkey or goose over Christmas you won't go wrong with this one, made from grapes sourced some of the best blocks in Mount Barker in West Australia's Great Southern. There is delicious quality fruit to the fore here, with assistance from maturation in French oak barriques, 30% new, for 18 months. This is a deep, dark colour, with plum and dark berry characters, chocolate cake hints and more line and length than Dennis Lillee. This shone in a line-up containing several more expensive cabernets. $30. www.westcapehowewines.com.au/
Elias and Colleen Jreissati, the owners of Levantine Hill, are friends of mine. I have the greatest respect for winemaker Paul Bridgeman, who combines technical excellence with serious flair. So, having declared my bias, I'd like to say that this is best Levantine Hill estate chardonnay I have sampled. It is a wine of balance and panache, French accented but defiantly Australian. Hand-picked, hand-sorted and whole-bunch pressed Yarra Valley fruit has been utilised alongside mainly older French oak and the juice has been aged on lees to add complexity. This is medium-bodied, full of personality and delightfully drinkable. If you enjoy Meursault then you need to try this. $80. www.levantinehill.com.au/
If this wine was a boxer it would be a very young Muhammad Ali. It effortlessly combines power with style and elegance and definitely stands out from the pack. Barossa winery Schild Estate has access to some of the oldest and best vines in the region, but this is far from being a monochromatic knockout artist. It is enticingly aromatic and has plenty of textural interest in its layers of flavours. It certainly tastes for more expensive than its price tag. Think wild berries, ripe plums, astutely judged oak and impressive structure. A very fine Christmas present for a red wine collector. $50. www.schildestate.com.au/
Claudio Radenti, one of Tasmania's most talented winemakers, makes more expensive wines than this; as well as wines that are more complex. But I doubt he makes many that offer better value for money. Hand-picked, crushed and destemmed, this estate-grown wine is sitting right in the zone at three years of age with lovely balance and immediate drinkability. This was cool fermented in tanks before undergoing lees treatment and it is the vibrant cool-climate fruit that shines. Stone fruit and citrus flavours sit comfortably together in a fun wine designed for immediate enjoyment. Plenty of length; lashings of appeal. $33. www.freycinetvineyard.com.au.
It seems remarkable that wine grapes are still being grown right in the suburbs of Adelaide. The grenache fruit for this delicious tawny were grown in the the City of Marion, which was once known as the ‘Garden of Adelaide’. Since 2006, the Patritti family have been custodians of the historic Marion Vineyard on Oaklands Road on the banks of the Sturt River, which was planted in 1907. The label map shows its location. Batch 001 is a blend from the 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages and has toffee, honey aromas leading to a light, sweet palate with butterscotch and rich toffee flavours that is dangerously enticing. This could be enjoyed after dinner, chilled, or even poured over vanilla ice cream. $40 for 500ml. https://patritti.com.au/
Earlier this year I was fortunate enough to be a guest at the 50th birthday celebrations at Cullen Wines in Margaret River. Vanya Cullen and her teams are leaders when it comes to organics and biodynamics, but I was also taken with the attention to detail across the range; from flagships like Kevin John and Diana Madeline to "midweek" drinks like this white blend. Sauvignon blanc/semillon blends are not currently in vogue, but defy the fashion trends and enjoy a terrific summer white for quaffing enjoyment. Six percent of verdelho adds some tropical fruit notes to this very refreshing wine. $29. www.cullenwines.com.au
