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At a time when wineries with far lesser reputations are charging $60 and upwards for their pinots noir, it is a real pleasure to find a wine like this one from one of the Yarra's finest winemakers, David Bicknell. Its is an individual vineyard wine from the Hazeldene vineyard, which is in Gladysdale and has red volcanic soil. This underwent whole bunch/berry fermentation in open vessels for three weeks before spending a year in French oak. The end result; a disarmingly quaffable cool-climate pinot noir with sweet varietal fruit and assertive tannins that is darn fine value for $44. www.oakridgewines.com.au.
This offers a serious taste of Sicily with a very reasonable price tag. Impressively perfumed and flavoured, it is made largely from the native Sicilian grape Nero d’Avola and is has structure without being challenging. It is very food friendly, soft and juicy with elegant and fine tannins and would pair with anything from Osso Bucco to roast chicken or mature hard cheeses. Distributed by Single Vineyard Sellers. $30.
Blue Pyrenees Estate vineyard in cool western Victoria is a source of several outstanding value red wines. "Delicious" said a local cafe owner on being offered a sip of this. "Yum" said the barista. "Delicious" repeated the server. These guys often give me input on wines I like, but in this case they were unanimous. The cabernet grapes (with 5% merlot in the blend) are matured for 24 months in new to 10-year-old French and American oak barriques. adding style and substance. Think blackcurrants, mint, briary notes and fine grained tannins. Delightful. $27. www.bluepyrenees.com.au
The maestro has not lost his touch. After five decades in the wine industry, pioneer, winemaker and educator Brian Croser is still producing wines of impeccable balance and widespread appeal. Much of his success has come down to a knack for brilliant site selection. Tapanappa acquired the then 30-year-old Whalebone Vineyard in Wrattonbully in 2002, transforming the vineyard management. From a dry, warm vintage, this is a beautifully complex wine with layers of flavours. Think a classic Australian blend with the dark cassis and blackberry fruit flavours from the cabernet in harmony with spice and leather notes from the shiraz. There's plenty of length here, cellar potential as well, but this is in the zone right now. French oak barriques, 50% new, 50% second fill, play a serious support role without intruding. 96 points. $55. https://tapanappa.com.au/
So you like your red wines robust but still well balanced? You've come to the right spot. This is an inky purple-red in colour with dark berry, instant coffee and black chocolate aromas allied to an equally intense palate with a firm tannin structure, assertive oak and more length than Bob Beamon. It is a single-vineyard wine from a family owned and operated winery in McLaren Vale, home to many luscious shirazes. This one stands out from the crown for both quality and value, and would be an impressive winter warmer paired with a pie or casserole dish. $25. www.shingleback.com.au.
Malbec's traditional home is in France, where it first shone in Bordeaux and is the main grape in Cahors. Nowadays, most malbecs come from Argentina, where the variety has flourished, but Langhorne Creek in South Australia is a another region where the variety shines. This is an absolute standout from a family winery with a 170-year history and a very talented winemaker in Paul Hotker, the 2019 Jimmy Watson trophy winner. This is rich, assertive and full bodied, with violet, dark berry and olive aromas, powerful cassis fruit with savoury naunces and a firm structure that suggests long-term cellaring might be in order. It's a bloody delicious drop. $69. www.bleasdale.com.au
A lot of wine drinkers are not particularly adventurous. They know they love chardonnay, or perhaps old clarets, and that's all they drink. Perhaps that is why roussanne, a Rhone white grape variety rarely grown in Australia, remains very much under the radar. A pity, as roussanne is vibrant in its youth but also has a capacity for aging gracefully, unlike sauvignon blanc and other popular white grapes. Yangarra, in McLaren Vale, make two different styles of roussanne, of which this lively - but savoury and textural - offering is my favourite. Farmed organically and biodynamically on sandy ironstone gravels, this is wild fermented and spent seven months in older oak with lees stirring. Think white stone fruit and honeyed notes with a Led Zeppelin-style richness. $35. www.yangarra.com.au.
