Kooyong 2023 Nord Pinot Noir

 

Kooyong/Port Phillip Estate winemaker TIm Perrin and his team left me in a bit of a bind. I tasted their 2023 Faultline Chardonnay and was keen to review that, then the 2024 Massale Pinot Noir impressed me. Both, however, were outshone - albeit only marginally - by the inaugural release of this stunning special occasion Nord Pinot Noir. Made from a small single vineyard block that is peaking at 15 years of age, this is stellar Mornington Peninsula cool-climate pinot from a label that does not put a foot wrong. The floral, intense 2023 Nord is beautifully balanced with elegance and plush tannins on the finish. A wine of structure and style. Pair with Chinese roast duck. $85. https://www.portphillipestate.com.au/

Mount Horrocks 2025 Watervale Riesling

 

Stephanie Toole is one of the very best riesling makers in Australia and this new release can only add to her reputation, particularly as peak seafood season is with us. Whether you are grilling some prawns on the barbecue, grabbing some takeaway fish and chips or crafting a lobster salad you won’t go wrong with this exquisitely nuanced dry riesling from a small, family-owned, organic/biodynamic producer. Think lime essence, slatey minerality, intense energy and tight acidity. Everything you’d want from a Clare Valley riesling from a perfect vintage. $42. https://www.mounthorrocks.com/

The Other Wine Co 2025 Sangiovese

Young, fresh and juicy sangiovese is such a delight. This vibrant new release was a very good match with spaghetti bolognaise, and would go just as well with a spring barbecue, I suspect. It is only the second release of a sangiovese under this label with grapes sourced from cool-climate vineyards in the Mount Lofty Ranges. The wines for this "value" and "drink now" brand are made at associated label Shaw+Smith, in the nearby Adelaide Hills. This is gloriously gluggable with floral aromas and bright red and black fruit notes, hints of fresh spices and some brisk acidity on the finish. Well worth snapping up a couple of bottles with an RRP of $29. https://www.theotherwineco.com/

De Bortoli 2024 Cool-Climate Pinot Noir

It is becoming increasingly hard to find affordable cool-climate Australian pinot noir - but this one is an exception to that rule. Made by Kate Webber and Jai Harrop - young winemakers from wine dynasties - this offers a lot of fresh, vibrant pinosity, along with excellent value. It is a fresh and appealing "drink now" style of pinot with varietal appeal and crispness on the finish. This sits on the lighter-side of the spectrum, making it extremely - and immediately - food friendly. It is a blend of fruit from several different Yarra Valley vineyards that is bright and fun with some whole bunch and older oak very much in the background. Splash out on a some duck pancakes from a local Chinese restaurant. $25. www.debortoli.com.au

Soumah 2024 Single Vineyard Hexham Marzemino

 

Yarra Valley producer Soumah is becoming a reliable source of multiple interesting wines made from Italian varietals. Marzemino is a native of Trentino in northern Italy and is genetically a cousin of shiraz, although it has a reputation for being disease prone and being difficult to manage. While sometimes used in red blends, in Trentino it is made as a varietal wine. This Australian take has vibrant acid and a medium/light body, alongside impressive length and structure, making it very food friendly. In Mozart's opera Don Giovanni, the lead character calls out for a glass of marzemino. I'm with him. Delightfully different. $40. https://soumah.com.au/

Oakridge 864 2023 Drive Block Funder & Diamond Chardonnay

 

The 864 collection represents the very best of Oakridge's Yarra Valley portfolio, which is legendary for its almost obscene consistency of quality. The name 864 pays homage to the winery's Coldstream street address and the 2023 vintage marks the 12th release of this single-block chardonnay - a wine that many would pick as fine Burgundy when tasted blind. It is a vinous superstar - as its sibling the Henk Aquaduct Block. The grapes are hand harvested, whole-bunch pressed to large format French oak (20% new), wild-yeast fermented, matured for 10 months on lees then transferred to tank for an additional six months on lees prior to bottling. The end result: stunningly precise, pure and citrus-guided chardonnay with length, elegance, linearity and immediate appeal. Super stuff. $100. www.oakridgewines.com.au.

Devil's Lair 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon

 
This was my personal standout at a recent Treasury Collective portfolio tasting event for wine media. Drinking brilliantly in its youth, it is fresh, vibrant and ready to enjoy with red meat dishes. It is dark with blackberry and cassis flavours allied to classy French oak, showcasing fruit from the warmer north of Margaret River. What is immensely impressive is how stylish and elegant it is. There is serious poise and structure here. With a retail price of under $50 it is no surprise that this is virtually sold out at cellar door, but there is still some in retail land if you move quickly. Highly recommended. 96 points. $50. https://www.devils-lair.com.au/