Glen Hayley was handed one of the least enviable tasks in the Australian wine industry when he was named the successor to Sandro Mosele, who had churned out world-class chardonnays and pinots for Kooyong and Port Philip Estate on the Mornington Peninsula over the past decade with apparent nonchalance. On the evidence, however, of Hayley's solo debut releases, this excellent chardonnay and an impressive 2015 Beurrot Pinot Gris ($30), Kooyong has not missed a beat in the change-over. This is one of Australia's best-value chardonnays; a blend of quality fruit from vineyards at Tuerong and Balnarring that hit just the right balance between cool-climate citrus and stone fruit flavours, along with hints of struck match and flint. It is tight and enticing with plenty of length and there is a whole lot of serious drinking pleasure here for $32. www.kooyongwines.com.au.
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