This is one for those wine lovers who enjoy their chardonnays in a delicate, subtle Chablis or Saint-Veran style. This is the first release of this single-vineyard wine, made from vines that are fast approaching 30 years of age. Grapes are hand-picked, whole-bunch crushed, pressed and allowed to settle overnight. Natural fermentation occurs in older French oak casks (no new oak is used) and the juice is left to rest on lees until late November. This is pale in colour but offers terrific drinking pleasure. It is bright and lifted with lemon and lime notes, slatey minerality and appealing acidity. Seriously pleasurable. Pair with pan-fried flathead in lemon butter. $50. www.debortoli.com.au.
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