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Another winner from talented couple Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser; a beautifully balanced cool-climate pinot from the Summertown vineyard - one of the oldest in the region - in the Piccadilly Valley of the Adelaide Hills. The quality fruit has soaked up the 40% new French oak and the wine presents with pure pinosity. No surprise as the Terre a Terre team feels the climate here is very similar to that of Burgundy. So an Australian pinot with a definite French accent made in tiny quantities. I liked this a lot; primarily because it is bloody delicious, even in its youth. $40. www.terreaterre.com.au.
Kevin John, arguably Australia's most consistent fine chardonnay, is named in tribute to winemaker Vanya Cullen's late father, the founder of the Margaret River winery. Made from chardonnay vines planted between 1976-1988, it is - once again - a triumph. It ticks all the sustainability boxes; organic, biodynamic, carbon neutral etc, but it is the purity of the fruit that is the most striking element of this new release. There's 50% new oak, 100% natural malo and the wine is unfiltered. There's a panoply of pleasure here; a symphony of style. The oak barely registers. Think length, poise. minerally intensity and immense drinking pleasure. 97/100 for me. $127. www.cullenwines.com.au.
Matt Burton is one of the Hunter Valley's winemaking wizards when it comes to semillon, the white grape variety for which the region is best known. Burton makes semillons in a range of styles, from "wild" to off-dry. While many semillons are crafted to age gracefully this is one for enjoying right now, while is still boasts the cocky bright fruitiness of a cheeky nightclub comedian. It is made from grapes grown at the Tinkler family's School Block Vineyard - and no one is more obsessive about quality viticulture than the Tinklers. Expect intense crisp citus acidity and lots of length. Pair this with fresh oysters, or a seafood basket. $30. www.gundogestate.com.au.
Winemaker Paul Bridgeman describes the 2017 Yarra Valley vintage as being "akin to winding the clock back 25-plus years, delivering an absolutely ideal unusually cool, calm and extended growing season like the classic conditions of yore". Anyone lucky enough to taste this stunning syrah would be likely to agree; it has serious cool-climate style. Poised, like a ballet dancer or supermodel, it also has an inner core of strength; and an elegance akin to one of the classic cars in owner Elias Jreissati's collection. It's a smooth customer with layered flavours that range from Christmas Cake to cassis to white pepper. Complex but undemanding, sensuous and silky, this is a beautifully integrated instant classic. I'd give it 96 points, or maybe 96.5. $80. www.levantinehill.com.au.
Seriously good cool-climate chardonnay from McLaren Vale winery Shottesbrooke made using Adelaide Hills fruit. With prices for top-notch chardonnays creeping about the $50 mark this offers excellent value for money. It is elegant and stylish with bright citrus fruit flavours and crisp minerality. It's a lovely drink offering immediate pleasure that would pair brilliantly with roast pork, crackling and all the trimmings. $33. www.shottesbrooke.com.au.
Castle Rock Estate winemaker Rob Diletti is something of a riesling specialist. This is one of three rieslings in the current range and is absolutely outstanding both in terms of quality and value-for-money. The Great Southern in Western Australia is a region that can compete with any in Australia in regard to riesling quality and potential longevity. Pale, but intense, this still quite tightly wound in its youth with lime and grapefruit juice notes to the fore. It has terrific structure and fresh zingy acid on the finish and is lip-smackingly good right now. Pair it with pan-fried whiting fillets.
Looking for a vibrant and juicy pinot noir that won't break the bank? You've come to the right place. The vineyards of Seville Estate are located in the cooler, southern regions of the Yarra Valley and produce very stylish fruit. Winemaker Dylan McMahon adds a bit of magic and you have an impressively perfumed wine which captures two key elements of pinot pleasure: bright red fruit characters and earthy, savoury notes. This is a fresh, textural wine with impressive structure for short- to medium-term enjoyment. Lovely stuff. $40.
